Cinque Terre, beyond the ordinary.

How to experience a magical place out of the mass tourism "black hole" , my favorite places plus a local recipe.

My approach to the Cinque Terre is definitely that of a local.

I must admit (how could one not?) that Cinque Terre are a slice of heaven. A cluster of colorful villages nestled in coves perched above the sea, surrounded by "heroic" vineyards, wild Mediterranean scrub, and the deep blue sea of Liguria.

Each time I see them, I'm still amazed, as it truly encapsulates the essence of Liguria: a land of steep mountains plunging into a tempestuous sea, tamed by men with dry stone walls and small ports hidden among the rocks. They are also a clear reflection of the rugged, stubborn, yet poetic character of the Ligurians.

However, sadly, Cinque Terre today struggle to be appreciated for what they truly are.

Mass tourism has engulfed and is slowly consuming them. For now (I remain optimistic, nothing is irreversible), it's turning them into an "unreal-ideal," "Instagrammable" (what an awful adjective) place, sadly soulless. If I say Disneyland?

The small village groceries, once the lifeline for the inhabitants of these isolated hamlets, have disappeared. The artisanal shops and traditional trattorias are gone too. All have given way to souvenir stores with loud t-shirts hanging outside and eateries catering mainly to hordes of tourists in tank tops disembarking from ferries or trains. Even the small fishermen's houses have been transformed into Airbnb or bed & breakfasts, mostly furnished with IKEA and marketed at exorbitant prices.

If you wander through these small seaside villages at night in the peak of summer, after the last ferry has whisked away the last of the day-trippers, the streets are almost deserted. No elderly folks cooling off in the church square, no children playing ball, no women chatting at their doorsteps. You'll only encounter tipsy, happy and carefree foreign couples staggering through the dark, silent alleys. The show is over, and the curtain reopens tomorrow morning.

Those working in tourism in the Cinque Terre shouldn't take offense; this is just a heartfelt declaration of love. The situation is getting out of hand, and we Ligurians, who remember how it used to be, notice the difference. Much more so do the few residents who remain leaving in these villages, who in high season find themselves elbowing through tourists just to get home at lunch time.

So, what's the best way nowadays to discover and savor these still enchanting Cinque Terre?

Jus one word: outside.

Outside the usual hours, outside the peak season, off the beaten path.

Just a small shift away from the space-time dimension of that “black hole” of mass tourism can let you experience the powerful charm of this corner of Liguria.

Outside the usual hours. If you want to lose yourself in narrow alleys of stone arches, steep stairs, wooden doors, if you want to be surprised by terraces hanging over the sea, if you want to watch the small fish boats silently sway in the harbors, find a place to stay inside one village of the Cinque Terre (if you're on a budget, settle for a dimly lit refurbished basement).

In the morning, after breakfast, hop on the first available ferry or train and leave, go visit the beautiful surroundings (Porto Venere, Levanto, Framura, Bonassola), then return in the evening.

Now is your moment: enjoy the sunset with an aperitif, enjoy the quiet, dark streets at night, enjoy a walk along the sea with your phone's flashlight on so you don't trip. And above all, enjoy the sunrise: wake up very early and roam the streets while everyone is still asleep, when you can still hear the sound of the sea lapping against the dock, when delivery carts bring fruits and vegetables to restaurants, when the bars are still closed (they open late, get used to it, your first coffee will be a bit delayed).

Outside the peak season. Consider June, July, August, and September only for off-hours (as mentioned above), off-places (as below), and avoid weekends. May is semi-critical. Always check the holidays in neighboring Countries like France and Germany before leaving.

During this high season, prices are very high, free spots for drinking, eating, going to the beach, parking are scarce, and the number of people around is overwhelming (are you becoming a bit of a misanthrope like me?).

From October to April, the situation is much better. But be careful not to be too radical; in January, you'll find almost everything closed for holidays. It's a shame, though, because at the end of January, on the first sunny days, nature begins to bloom again, birds chirp, and it feels like paradise.

Off the beaten path. Around the well-known "Cinque Terre" (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso), there are many enchanting places to stop: to admire the landscape, eat, sleep, walk. However, you can only discover them by car or on foot.

The car, however, is not the best way to visit villages (except Corniglia) that are by the sea, as parking there is really scarce and expensive.

For these, there's the train or the ferry in the beautiful season… and  the hit-and-run tourist knows it well.

It's a choice, but I recommend visiting the area by car, venturing into the roads that connect the villages from above, taking random detours, doing U-turns to go back, stopping along the road, getting out, and admiring the landscape.

By doing this, for example, I discovered the wonderful villages of Volastra and San Bernardino and the Sanctuaries of Nostra Signora di Soviore and Nostra Signora di Reggio.

If you enjoy walking, then you can truly savor the essence of the Cinque Terre thanks to the numerous trekking paths that cross it. They are cleaning many ancient paths in the last period. But always in good weather and always skipping the most popular ones in the peak season, otherwise, you risk encountering hefty foreign tourists struggling up the trails in high heels or flip-flops (depressing).

These are my general tips for planning a vacation, short or long, in the Cinque Terre area.

Now, I'll leave you with some more specific recommendations on places/things that I like and that I feel I can suggest you to experience these places in the best way and without remaining slightly disappointed.

My favorite places in the Cinque Terre area

Where to eat

Ittiturismo SP4488 : Although Stanley Tucci has already discovered it (see the episode on Liguria in “Searching for Italy”), it remains one of the truest and most authentic places where I like to eat when I’m in the Cinque Terre. Guido, the owner, is a genuine fisherman and a farmer. What you eat is self-produced. The place is on the hill behind Corniglia, among the olive trees, in front of the sea. You can get there by car or on foot.

Bar Ristoro San Bernardino: I mentioned earlier  San Bernardino, a village where you can still meet old men talking on the benches of the church square. Here you can have an aperitif at the Bar Ristoro, they will offer you local wines and tastings of local products.

Gianni Franzi: it is perhaps the only historic restaurant left in Vernazza. It is in the center, on the large square overlooking the sea. The recipes are traditional, delicious. Try the appetizers and main courses based on anchovies and stuffed muscles.  The owners also have a bar with a terrace overlooking the sea on the fortress to the east of the village as well as a small hotel.

Ristorante Miky: an elegant and historic restaurant in Monterosso. Traditional cuisine reinvented in a contemporary key with strictly local products.

La cantina di Miky: always the same family of the restaurant Miky, always in Monterosso, but more informal and a stone’s throw from the sea.

A piè du Campu: winebar and focaccia place inside an ancient lemon orchard in Manarola. The owner, Yvonne Riccobaldi, originally from Manarola, was named the best sommelier in Liguria in 2012. Focaccias, sometimes gourmet, are wonderful and served just under the lemon trees.

Enoteca Internazionale di Monterosso: it is the oldest store of wines and local products in Monterosso. It offers wine tastings (also guided) accompanied by bruschettas based on local products.

Where to stay

Agriturismo Missanega, on the hills behind Monterosso. Wonderful, in every respect. Location, view, hospitality, cuisine. There are very few rooms... I said everything. You can reach it by car but they also have a shuttle service.

La Canaba: ancient Ligurian farmhouse, elegantly furnished, overlooking the sea, a short walk from the center of Monterosso.

Cadè ventu: an inn, on the hills between Vernazza and Corniglia (near San Bernardino). Out of the confusion, surrounded by nature, overlooking the sea.

La sosta di ottone III: a boutique hotel, simple and elegant, breathtaking views of the hills behind Levanto, slow-living cut. There is also a restaurant, mentioned in the Michelin Guides.

Villa Valentina: an elegant bed&breakfast in the nice village of Levanto, just close to Monterosso. Paula, the owner, also organizes cooking classes in her wonderful open air kitchen in the garden.

Hotel della Baia: in the almost “secret” bay of Le Grazie, just close to Portovenere, an ancient village founded by olive oil making friars. The hotel, facing the sea, has also a good restaurant that on summertime place the table just on the port quay.

Wine makers to visit

Ca du Ferrà: not far from the Cinque Terre, on the hills of Bonassola (perfect out of town excursion in high season). The vineyards overlooking the sea produce award-winning wines. Davide and Giuseppe, the young owners,  offer experiences related to the tasting of their wines immersive and with  attention to every small detail.

Cantina Crovara: The vineyards are just those that you see overlooking the sea in Manarola. Contact the owner, Alessandro, he will take you for a ride through the vineyards and show you his winery!

A piè du campu: If you want to organize a wine experience, write to Yvonne, surely she will propose you something authentic!

Trekking Routes

I am absolutely not able to recommend walking itineraries, I don’t have the skills. But my friend Elisabetta Frega can do it! It’s a hiking guide specialized in the Easter part of Liguria. Online and on social media you can find her as Free soul on the road.

A ride on a fishing boat

Why not visit the Cinque Terre on board a real fishing boat with a real fisherman of the Cinque Terre (rare breed endangered)? Guido takes you around and tells you the story and life of the local fishermen while offering you an aperitif with his cousin’s wine and salted anchovies made by him. For information write to Ittiturismo SP4488 .

Photo shooting

If in your imagination the Cinque Terre are the most romantic place in the world (they also have Via dell’Amore, the Path of Love) you may want to immortalize your journey as a couple in this beautiful scenery. My lovely friend photographer Gaia Borzicchi does it of work and over the years she has discovered many incredible, authentic and unique spots in the Cinque Terre!

And what about you? Have you been to Cinque Terre? Do you have a place of the heart that you would like to share with me and with this group of people loving Liguria?

A local recipe

Torta di riso di Soviore (Soviore savory rice pie)

This is a savory rice pie commonly prepared by Monterosso people to celebrate the Holy Mary of Saviore on August 15 when they move on pilgrimage to the relevant Sanctualy on the back hills.

A pie very similar to the other rice pies you may taste in Liguria, but for the tomato sauce and dried porcini mushrooms inside.

This a recipe very versatile. A snack, a vegetarian main course, an appetizer, something to offer cut in small cubes to your friends for aperitivo.

For the dough

200 g of flour 00

100 ml of warm water

20 ml of EVO oil

1 pinch of salt

For the filling

300 g (1 ½ cups) of rice

10 tablespoons of tomato sauce ready made

4 eggs

2 fists full of dried mushrooms

8 hip tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

3 tablespoons of EVO oil, plus for greasing the pan

Salt

Pepper

Boil the rice in salted water and drain halfway through cooking.Soak the dried mushrooms in warm water.

Prepare the dough by kneading flour, water, oil and a pinch of salt (you can also use the planetarium) until you get a very soft and smooth dough. Divide the dough into two balls and let it rest for at least 20 minutes covered with plastic wrap.

Meanwhile preheat the oven to 180°C and prepare the filling.

Drain and squeeze the dried mushrooms and chop finely. Sautè the mushrooms in 3 tablespoons of Evo oil for 3/4 minutes.

In a bowl add the rice, tomato, eggs, dried mushrooms with their oil and parmesan.Add plenty of freshly ground pepper and season with salt.

Grease a baking pan of about 30 cm in diameter.Roll out the balls of dough in 2 sheets with the help of the rolling pin and hands.Line the pan with a first sheet a couple of millimeters thick, pour inside the filling, level well and cover with a thinner dough sheet. Seal the edges and sprinkle oil on the surface.

Bake for 35 minutes or until the crust is crispy.

Serve cold, even the next day.

You can download, save and print the recipe here below:

Cinque Terre Rice Pie

40.8KB ∙ PDF file

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If you are planning a trip to Liguria and are looking for information and a help for putting together your journey without fussing too much around the web, write me! I will help you designing your Ligurian adventure out of the touristic path!

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